As many of you know, I like to work with knits… especially Jersey. I personally like the natural look and feel of the fabric, just like many of you.  If you take a look at your wardrobe, you will find many types of knits, from sweatshirts, fleece, velour, velvet, to Jersey knit.

Some variations of knits are easily stitched under a machine, while others can be a bit tricky to construct with, so that the garment holds its shape.

There are two basic types of knits, a single and double.

Single knits are light to medium weight with looped threads. Single knits often make apparel such as t-shirts, dresses, and skirts. Basically single knit is very stretchy, with flat vertical ribs on the right side, and horizontal ribs on the wrong side of fabric.

Double knits are made with two interlocking single layers of thread which have been both looped at once. Double knit looks basically the same on right and wrong side of fabric. This knit has very little stretch and is the medium to heavy weight knit. This type of knit is best used for more structured garments such as jackets, pants, shirts, and skirts. Knits can be made in several variations but commonly 100% cotton to 100% synthetic material is what you’ll find.

Here is a short list:

Fleece- This type of fabric has very little stretch, is soft on one side, and flat on the other. It is often used in pajamas, shirts, scarves, pants, and blankets.

Velour- has a soft brushed nap on right side of fabric, it stretches across the grain, and often used for making dresses as well as pants, jackets, and shirts.

Interlock- this is a single weight fabric that is light to middle weight, has fine ribbing on both sides, and stretches across the grain.

Jersey knit is made from cotton or a cotton blend. This knit is a very soft light weight fabric, most commonly used for bedding.  I personally like to use it to construct shirts, and my many of my clients prefer to wear it because of how comfortable it is.

Here are a few tips about how to sew using knit:

1. When you begin to cut knits, don’t let the fabric hang or stretch.

2. Use pins… a lot of them! It can be difficult to keep knits pattern pairs together.

3. To prevent tears in the seams of knit garments, try a rounded needle such as a ball point.

4. The thread used to sew knit can be as equally important in preventing tears, so try polyester or polyester cotton.

5. You may want to try using tissue paper between knit layers to prevent slipping while sewing.

This is a link to my latest interview by N. Murdock of Manchester PR Blog.

You will read more about the pulse of fashion in my life and what led me to this career in One on One with Bob Martin.

Happy ST. Patrick's Day!

Bob

Quilling is a technique for taking paper strips and winding them in a circular motion to form a coil.  The coil(s) are transformed into mini objects.  Anything you can think of can be created with shaping, pinching, separating these coils. 

This reminded me of appliqué, beading, those kinds of techniques on fabric, but also inspired the thought of how I could translate the technique of the circular coiling of paper to creating circular coils of fabric.  Just imagine hundreds, thousands of coiled and shaped pieces of fabric creating a pattern or designed texture atop a garment. 

How would this work, what type of fabric would lend well to this design, what type of foundation might I need, can I combine colors and textures, what if I frayed the edges of just some of the fabric strips,  what happens if I string beads on portions of the coil and not others?  All these questions and more… are just the beginning of the design process.  Taking something that inspires me and translating it in a way to create it in fabric, so that I can communicate the idea through a garment to those who view the finished piece.

This is food for thought, so if you get inspired to try it, send me your photos!  I’d love to see what you design and create! Bob

I was able to take in the Lion Brand Runway Show in Anaheim.  It is quite interesting to take in shows for which the textile is created and not already man made.  The interpretations of the last 3 garments were from fashion students.  It was an excellent example of the amazing garments which knitters can morph with mere yarn.  I enjoyed seeing their interpretations and skills put to the test.  I must say, they did quite well. 

The show was announcing new yarns for this year, and celebrating old favorites.  Vanna White was in attendance showcasing her new glamour variety.  I particularly liked Vanna’s selection of yarns because of their clean, bright, and polished look.  The finished garments had a professional high quality appearance compared to several other types of yarns featured.  Each to their own though, it often depends on what your designer’s eye is aiming to achieve, or what lends well to represent the garment design you’re trying to achieve. 

This week I received a question from a member that said. 

“I am learning to sewing with your HTFD lesson 1.  I have practiced and am able to finally sew straight. Lol! I have a concern though that as I continue to do larger garments, I will have a lot of waste in making mistakes.  Is there any advice for me on how to not be as wasteful, or reuse what I messed up?” 

I would like to share a couple tips that deal with this issue. 

First and foremost…. as I talk about in the lesson…… always practice new techniques, sewing, stitching, cutting, buttonholes, anything that you’ve never done before, in a inexpensive muslin fabric. This will reduce pricey mistakes in final fabric and also help you feel more relaxed trying a new skill, without the pressure of a “do it or die!” mentality.

Even small scraps can be used for an easy…try it first.  Many times I grab scraps that are 4” x 5” to test stitching length, buttonhole size, tension on my machine, etc.  Just keep the scraps handy in a container by your sewing machine and when in doubt, grab one.

Now as you advance in your skills and become more comfortable cutting, draping, seaming, and such, try saving on material cost by using a small mannequin to create your garment.  Scale it down to a mini size.  You can still construct the garment in a final fabric without purchasing yards of expensive textiles. 

This is a great technique for beginners because it allows you to work with small pieces of fabric, not large cumbersome ones. You may feel more comfortable handling less bulk under the machine, and again feel less pressure to make that cut or stitch.

Types of fabric also determine cost of fabric, so definitely consider what type of fabric you need to construct your garment in.  Depending on the final garment you are trying to achieve, you might consider another texture or weight that can also alleviate your cost.

You may also try reusing already made items that are constructed from a textile you like.  For example the final Hooded Scarf I made in this lesson. 

One last thought is to find other designers who are willing to trade or simply give their own fabric scraps away.  Remember a lot of people are in the same situation as you are, instead of buying new fabric, possibly you can work a way to trade something that you no longer have interest in.  I know I have found fabric, bought yardage, and then decided later on to change my direction with the piece or color.  If you are able to find the right person, this might be a way to acquire new textiles by simply trading sometimes.

Happy Designing, Bob

I recently ran into Alden and Carol from BurdaStyle.  It was nice to meet them after admiring the work they do on Burdastyle.com website.  I look forward to collaborating with them in 2010.  We share similar visions, in that we enjoy watching individuals who might not otherwise have the opportunity to experience fashion, do so through my How To Fashion Design program and Free Fashion Projects, as well as patterns available on their site.

Inspiring individuals to create fashion or design in general, whether it be in clothing, jewelry making, knitting, drawing, the list goes on and on….. is what I love to do. Seeing the designer awaken in people is an amazing experience, and to watch them have success in doing it, is what motivates me. 

I can imagine we will inspire many new and creative ideas to further inspire all the designers out there!  Keep an eye out for what’s new with "How To Fashion Design with Bob Martin" and BurdaStyle.com in 2010.

Until next time, keep designing! Bob

Craft and Hobby, are not necessarily the first words one thinks of when you mention fashion design.  However at this year’s CHA convention in Anaheim, CA, I found many interesting craft techniques that can be used in fashion design.  Creating garments is a “craft” in and of itself and is considered to be a hobby, for many creative people.

The fashion design process is all about experimenting and asking yourself questions to provoke your mind to think in ways it normally wouldn’t.  For example:  If I have a foam paper plate, I might put my finger nail into it and see that it makes a distinct mark. Now I might use other objects to see what types of impressions I can create.  Then from there I could create a design in the plate, from those impressions or even added objects on the surface of the plate.  I might choose to then paint over the plate and use it as a print, or stamp for some basic fabric.  This is just a brief example of one way to manipulate fabric using craft like techniques, to create your own original design.

I also found an interesting product to use on velvet fabric and possibly others as well, which is where the experimenting comes in. 

You use this product on the wrong side of the textile, and create a design on the fabric.  Once you have your design completed, you then let the textile dry and then proceed to wash it.  During the washing process, the fabric releases its velvet in the area where you created the design.  This technique could be used for many different applications in creating new textile patterns, prints, designs, and original work.  All it takes is a designer…. aka…You…to take it to the next level!

Journal entry from January's CHA Super Show and Tradeshow.

It is all happening this week in Anaheim, CA the Consumer and Tradeshow Event for crafters and hobbyist alike.  As a member of CHA I was able to travel to CA this weekend and visit all the booths, see and meet several very talented and creative people, as well as network with future business associates. 

The weather in CA is amazing compared to back east! I could get used to this real quick!

There is quite a lot of stir over all the free samples, and “make and take” crafts going on here.  I’m very impressed to see CHA introducing sewing back into the Convention this year.  The National Sewing Council has a booth which includes the winner of their contest “Passion for Fashion”, and lots of Janome sewing machines!!  Check out this coat made from their sales bags and fabric!

Okay.... so I am going to be very busy in the next week trying to catch up on all the events I need to blog about.  Here are just a few things to look forward to:

• CHA 2010
• Burda Style
• Inspiring Technique
• Have we met?
• NSC Sewing Lounge
• more......

Well if I spend all this time listing things, I won't be able to get the writing done, so ttyl  Bob

Bob would ever consider being a contestant on Project Runway?

I recieve this question alot and so I thought I would address it in my blog today. 

I had considered applying for Project Runway earlier on, when it first aired, but now I don’t really feel it is a path leading to where I am going in my career now.   This is mainly because my aspirations have changed, now being involved with the How to Fashion Design DVD program, and with the other areas where I want to work.  I don’t see Project Runway being a benefit to those goals.  

I am a competitive person so that aspect of the show excites me, however the project challenges Project Runway presents to the designers does not.   With the time constraint, and the manner in which the challenge is presented, it doesn't allow for the design aspect that I like most.  So the show does not inspire me in the way I like to design, not that this method is wrong, but it just isn’t me as a Designer.  This may seem hard to understand for some of you out there staring out in design, but if you understand the design process clearly,
you know why I say this. 

So for those of you out there with this nagging question lingering over your heads...LOL...you now can be at rest having the answer ;)

I have always been interested in fashion since I was a child. Whether it was dressing up and playing pretend or trying to find my own personal style as a teenager.   It was when the love for design and interest in fashion collided that I knew I wanted to pursue it. I had a late start and moved to London when I was 22 to study fashion design. From there the rest is history.

I have your DVDs, which I like very much.  I followed along step-by-step on drawing the human figure and was pleased with my results right away. The idea that a fashion sketch is 9 heads tall is interesting, but is there a formula for drawing people of regular height, 8 heads tall?

Thanks for you question Joanne!

There is a formula for drawing the 8 head figure as well.  As a fashion designer, you will not want to illustrate your designs on a model of 8 heads, for reasons we discuss in the Fashion Drawing DVD.  With that said the figure points are as follows for an 8 head figure.

Line 1 – Head     Line  2 - Chest line at nipples  Line 3 - Waistline, at bellybutton  Line 4 - Groin Area Line 5 - Just above the knee  Line 6 - Just below knee  Line 7 - Mid calf  Line 8 - Bottom of feet.

Be sure to master your 9 head figure first! 

I would strongly suggest that you be able to draw accurately the proportions for the 9 head fashion figure before any bad habits could form, due to any confusion of these two serperate figure sizes.

Remember to meet me in the studio and discuss your projects.  I enjoy reviewing your work, so until next time, keep designing!

What will fashion trends be in the years to come? 

People seem to be discussing this subject more and more with the economic and environmental issues. 

I see fashion in the next 5 years turning to more “green” thinking.  It is becoming more important to people, really in the last 10 years, and I think you will continue to see that grow in interest. Typically people who don’t normally consider it will.

The bad economy will also force people to rethink their wardrobe and to be more versatile. I think you will see styling play a big role in what we wear. Simply adding accessories to your wardrobe, for example my “Heel Jacket”, where women can dress up an ordinary outfit with a cleverly designed accessory.

Ecommerce also will, and has had an affect on the way we can buy designer clothing. Some people never had access to buy certain top brand names. Internet has opened the door for people to buy brands and styles they would not have before.

There is a lot of information on the internet about this topic and if you would like to read more, you can find one article here at fashion.infomat

Check out the Free newly uploaded Designed Garment by Bob Martin.

I call this garment the Cumber Belt! 

Inspired by the cumber bund this trendy accessory fits every occasion.  From casual to even formal, you decide when you choose the fabric.  This garment is a fun, stylish, and a simple project to complete.  I have included detailed instructions as well as photographs to help you along the way.

As always send me the pictures of you wearing your finished garment. 

Happy Designing!

Now that 2010 has arrived and you are making your first New Year's resolution, I thought I would put the challenge out there to all of you who have been putting off your dream to learn design.

What better time to start down the path to your dreams, than now! 

Take your future by it's boot straps and get on board with How To Fashion Design with Bob Martin Today!

Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!

I am looking forward to meeting all the new clients of How To Fashion Design with Bob Martin, in the year to come!

Happy Designing,

Fashion Designer Bob Martin

Any words of advice for a knitting designer?

My words of advice for a knitting designer are, try to knit anything!  One thing that knit designers have over fabric designers are the ability to actually create your textile.   Knitwear is very organic because you grow everything.  Every time you add a row you can do whatever you want in the design, you can drop stitches, you don’t have to use any seams, you can add yarn, you can take yarn away, and there is no limit!!  You can literally grow it into anything, so let that be your inspiration to just try anything! 

 Garrith Pugh knitted garbage bags!

As a designer myself I am often look at Aitor Throup or Garrith Pugh as two of my favorites.  Garrith Pugh, because his designs are off the wall and bizarre yet exquisitely executed.  His garments are far out but believable at the same time.  Most people think, I would never wear that, but this is the type of design that inspires other ready wear designers. I really like those designers that are inspiring other designers.

Some designers look at past designs for inspiration, and there are even designers that look back to their own designs and find new inspirations.  You hear some designers say, don’t copy my designs, but in away it is a compliment to have someone look at your work and be inspired by it.  I love to see a design come down the runway that makes you think… I have seen that before but I can’t quite put my finger on where it was.

These types of fashions are truly innovative and you will see them filter down through seasons, to other designer’s collections.  This is just a few reasons why these are my favorites.

I was asked a question about portraying texture in clothing and felt the answer would be interesting to most you designers as well.

This can be very difficult at times, depending on the textile you are trying to represent.  One of the techniques I use, and find works quite effectively, is to do a rubbing. 

What is a rubbing you may ask? 

Well it is when you place a textured surface under your drawing paper and literally rub the graphite of your pencil on top of your paper and over the textured surface you placed underneath.  Patterns for almost any textile can be replicated by using this method.  Experiment with plastics, metals, wood objects, or even very heavily textured fabrics themselves. 

You will find this drawing tip to be very useful, especially when trying to draw fabrics like knit.  Don't forget that the rubbing can be a simple suggestion of the texture, and doesn't have to cover the entire garment in the illustration.

To learn more about drawing fashion and techniques like these, check out my Fashion Drawing DVD